Woke up somewhere between 9-10am, showered and drank the horrendous moka pot coffee with an olive-oil cookie. The plan was to visit the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporanea. We left the apartment and headed for a bakery we had singled out to get something more substantial for breakfast, but they'd already run out of pastries. Literally across the road was a small patisserie called Los Angelitos however, so we went there instead. Everything looked good in the vast assortment they had, but fortunately our choices were narrowed down by the fact that most pastries were too massive. I bought something called a 'rose', which was some crisp pastry wrapped up like a flower and dipped in honey, and my wife went for a doughnut shaped chou stuffed with cream. The cream was of very high quality, the kind that can turn your day around. We ate our pastries with satisfaction at a nearby garden and we saw two samoyed dogs whilst sitting there; then we crossed the length of the Jardines de Murrillo to get that what we thought was the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporanea and instead was merely the Centro de Arte Contemporanea, housed in one of the many buildings built for the Iberoamerican Expo of 1929. We looked up the Centro Andaluz on the map and I reckoned that it would take about 20 minutes to get there, as that was the average time it took to get anywhere. We headed for it walking along the river, but at some point realised that it was going to take significantly longer, and the day was getting hot (it would get up to 31 degrees).
We crossed the river and elected to visit the Mercado Triana, which was just opposite the Mercado Lonja del Barranco (the one we'd visited on the 14th). This one was a proper market that sold meats, fish and vegetables but also had a number of small restaurant and similar establishments (actually, there's even a theatre inside!); less posh but a larger assortment of foods. We explored it from top to bottom and my wife suggested we'd have lunch there, seeing as the Centro Andaluz was still some way off. I wasn't very into the idea as we'd just had breakfast and it was merely 12:30 but had to begrudgingly admit it was reasonable. We took a second tour of the food stands and eventually decided to have some empanadillas from a small bakery (despite the name these were quiche-sized round stuffed puff pastries). I asked for a slice with spinach+bechamel and one with pisto but didn't realise the slices were massive: a full quarter of the entire thing. They were good but we ate them with some difficulty due to the size alone. As we were eating I became taciturn and somewhat surly; I think it felt like the plans I'd made in my head were slipping through my fingers and that made me upset - something I tend to do. My wife noticed, and I felt terrible when she asked me if I loved her - she thought I was upset with her. That shook me out of it.
We left the market and started walking down the river again, keeping in the shade of the trees to protect ourselves from the heat. Some kids in kayaks waved at us. We made it to a park close to the Centro Andaluz but then went the wrong way. It turns out there was going to be a large music festival in the same area that night and they were setting things up, doing soundchecks etc; the area had been fenced off and it was not possible to enter the Centro Andaluz from that side, but we only realised that halfway along the road (there were no signs, of course). Walked back and eventually entered from the other side. In the heat (it was now 31 degrees) the first courtyard we passed looked like a De Chirico landscape, which I loved. Eventually we found the ticket office - it was free that day, on account of the festival. We walked into an adjoining room, a chapel with an altar, the floor in front of it covered in blue candies and the rest of the room filled with hanging lights. We got confused because there were no other rooms accessible from there and were eventually rescued by an employeed that directed us towards the actual exhibition, which was across the courtyard. The exhibitions are arranged approximately around the perimeter of the building, with its centre being another dusty courtyard which was currently being baked by the sun. We watched a video that gave a voyeuristic take on show-horses for sheiks (it was an excuse to sit down after so much walking), then moved on to